Report:
Thunder Bay to Mattawa
The
last time I reported was upon my arrival at Silver Islet (Thunder
Bay) early in August. My departure from Silver Islet was delayed by 4
days due to high winds: In short my daily regimen included listening
to the thrice daily weather reports on my VHF for wind strength and
wave height. I WOULD NOT VENTURE OUT IF THE FORECAST WAS FOR GREATER
THAN 15 KNOTS (26.86 kmph).
While
frustrating not being able to keep up with my schedule, it was
another useful underlining of the principle that one can only do what
the Lady (called Superior) would allow. Also, Silver Islet in the
company of Bob and Leslie Climie, and Bill Climie was Idyllic as we
explored and met the citizens of Silver Islet. I even participated in
a Tai Chi class led by Bill Climie in the community park. I cannot
express my appreciation and gratitude enough for all the Climies did
for me: I felt cared for!
On
the 5th day, Thursday August 7, the wind settled enough to head out
with Bill Climie on the gap between Sibley and Black Peninsulas: The
first of many long crossings ( 4 -8 km) I would have to make to
complete my sojourn on the Great Lakes -Superior and Huron. As I was
just starting out on this new phase of my trip, my anxiety was high
and it was comforting to have Bill Climie guide me across this first
stretch. That night we completed the crossing as we camped on Island
#10 upon which an historic wooden lighthouse (long since automated)
was the principle feature. The next morning Bill Climie bid me adieu
as the weather window would only last another day and he, rightly,
wanted to get back before winds kept him from returning home as
planned. This was it, I was on my own for the remainder of the month.
Underlying
my concern was the impact of isolation and being wind bound on the
land due to weather on my psyche: I was worried about my capacity to
endure the anxiety provoked by my inaction and the surplus of
unfocussed time on my hands. I knew I had to keep myself busy and
engaged but that is often easier said than done. i was soon tested.
After an ill advised start on day 3 from Silver Islet, I soon found
myself in waters too dangerous for passage. I was rounding two points
of land wherein the wind, waves and shoals of rock had me challenged
to the extreme and likely terrified. After struggling ten km to the
lee of the wind behind Spar island, I called it quits before lunch
and waited out the “blow” for what proved to take the next 1.5
days. During that “furlough”, my psyche was challenged more than
any time in my life. While I did have an amusing incident courtesy of
the O.P.P to help me in my battle with the “chattering monkeys”
playing havoc with my mood, the interval was soon over and I had to
resume my own defenses. I was preparing my lunch on day two when the
throttled back motor of a boat in “my bay” had me wondering: What
the heck. There was an O.P.P. 24 ft RIB in my bay and clearly they
were not looking for me. In fact they had spotted the porcupine who
shared my bay and who would wander on the spit at noon in search of
food. Once they saw me they landed their craft to speak to me: Is
this guy nuts? Unfortunately they grounded the keel and required my
assistance to rock it off the gravel embankment.
Fortunately,
the weather improved and I was able to pass on the outside of the
islands making up the Rossport Archipalago into the stretch along the
north shore of Superior between Schreiber and Marathon, passing
Jackfish Bay (where I had to sit out a thunderstorm for two hours at
mid day) and the economically devastated Terrace Bay -the pulp mill
having been closed of late, in 4 days. While I did have a nice
following wind, I went like stink because I was on a mission to make
it to Marathon before the weather turned -I did not want to get
isolated again on some desolate island.
My
arrival in Marathon was heralded by a a sudden increase in wind wind
and waves which was exacerbated by the compression between the two
headlands bracketing the entrance to the harbour. I found myself
dazed on the boat launch wandering around in the “buff” after I
had removed my wetsuit. I must have presented quite a sight for I
soon had offers of assistance from Dion Berube (Bill Climie had seen
I had landed on the SPOT system and asked him to find me), Michael
Butler and another father and son team. In the end, I accepted
Michael Butler’s proffered assistance by way of bed, meal,
transportation and introduction to his wife Martha and other staff at
Pukaswa National Park. The latter was to prove to be my home for four
days as i waited for the wind to die -AUGUST IS HISTORICALLY A BAD
MONTH FOR TRAVEL ON SUPERIOR FOR THE SUN’S WARMING OF THE WATER HAS
THE EFFECT OF INCREASING WINDS INDEPENDENT OF WEATHER SYSTEMS.
Michael introduced me to Lynn Elliott an employee with the Park whose
duties included packaging trips on the latter. She would provide me
with maps and other critical information, not only on the Park’s
coastline but that of the North Channel of Lake Huron -Blind River
being her family home.
Michael
Butler not only helped me get to “Puck”, he was a daily visitor
for the time I was in “Puck” and was one of the most
spontaneously generous souls I have ever met. He also introduced me
to Kim Ransom who further detailed the coast for me. The weather
turned foul and for three days I was left to hike trails of the Park
with my new found friend Rudy Hrdlicka of Port Carling, Ontario who I
met on one of my island campsites on Lake Superior.
On
day four at “Puck”, my VHF gave me the news that the next two
days at least would have a ‘high wind warning’ and the time had
come for me to make a decision. As i did not have enough days left to
paddle the complete coastline of both Superior and Huron and meet my
son Wyatt at Killarney on Georgian Bay on August 31, I decided to
take a lift with Rudy down to Wawa, ON and Lake Superior Provincial
Park in the hope I would be able to to complete this coastline and
the balance of lake Superior without enduring more lengthy delays.
Although
I missed doing the 200 km of Pukaswa to Wawa coastline, I DID BY
TAKING THE RIDE UNEXPECTEDLY COME ACROSS THE GRAVE OF MY GREAT,
GREAT, GREAT AUNT LOUISA MACKENZIE BETHUNE ON THE NORTH BANK OF THE
MICHIPICOTEN RIVER.
With
the help of Carol Deutsh, in charge of the Lake Superior Provincial
Park Visitors Center, and her husband Bill Cooper, I was able to get
the maps and coastline detail, such as get out points, I needed to go
south.
I
was able to finish Lake Superior to the entry of Sault Ste Marie
headlands on Whitefish Bay before winds and weather got me to seek
the assistance of Peter Kempney to give me a lift to the St Mary
River just east of the Sault. It was pure luck that Peter was at home
and has such a kind heart when I realized I needed to avoid the “time
trap”of the locks at the Sault.
The
North Channel of Lake Huron is protected to an extent for much of its
length across this Lake by large islands, including Manitoulin, lying
between the channel and the harsher waters of Lake Huron. While it is
possible to have high winds, the North Channel has its own
“recreation” forecast which interprets the effect of these
islands.
I
put in some long days and long crossings to complete this channel and
the stretch from Blind River to Little Current and Killarney had me
holding my breath that the level of wind and height of waves in Lake
Huron did not spill though while I was out in the open. It did not
and I made it on tome to meet Wyatt in Killarney.
Unfortunately
Wyatt was unable to be with me for the three days as planned and his
two days made it necessary to go across Georgian Bay by way of the
back side of William Edward Island, Collins Inlet and Beaverhouse,
and return the next day to Killarney by way of the Chickens and the
outside of the Island. It was great fun to be with him. I WAS HAPPY
TO BE DONE WITH THE GREAT LAKES!
Getting
a ride to North Bay with Wyatt, I rented a car the next day and
returned to Killarney to pick up the kayak. Doubling back to the
French River at Hartley Bay, I proceeded to make 40 km circles of the
lower, middle and upper French River, before doing same on Lake
Nippissing and la Vase Portage before returning the car in North Bay
and meeting up with the crew from Ottawa.
Four
days on the Mattawa River with friends Don Bayne, John Gordon and
John Fee was quite simply devine. Although it rained hard on day one,
the remaining crystal clear days soon had us soon forgetting the
soaking we got. I had great fun and appreciate their support.
I
AM WRITING THIS UPDATE FROM VANCOUVER WHERE I AM ATTENDING THE
WEDDING OF MY SON WYATT WITH VANESSA BURDETT. MY PRESENCE HERE HAS
BEEN GREATLY FACILITATED BY MY FRIENDS IN NORTH BAY: CHRISTINE
JOHNSTON WHO HAS PROVIDED LOGING FOR ME AND STORAGE FOR MY KAYAK AND
GEAR WHILE I AM AWAY AND JOHN AND BETTY GORDON’S DAUGHTER JEN,
HUSBAND ROGER, CHILDREN GIFFORD, AILI AND EMY.
