Thunder Bay to Mattawa Report in his own words!

Report: Thunder Bay to Mattawa

The last time I reported was upon my arrival at Silver Islet (Thunder Bay) early in August. My departure from Silver Islet was delayed by 4 days due to high winds: In short my daily regimen included listening to the thrice daily weather reports on my VHF for wind strength and wave height. I WOULD NOT VENTURE OUT IF THE FORECAST WAS FOR GREATER THAN 15 KNOTS (26.86 kmph).

While frustrating not being able to keep up with my schedule, it was another useful underlining of the principle that one can only do what the Lady (called Superior) would allow. Also, Silver Islet in the company of Bob and Leslie Climie, and Bill Climie was Idyllic as we explored and met the citizens of Silver Islet. I even participated in a Tai Chi class led by Bill Climie in the community park. I cannot express my appreciation and gratitude enough for all the Climies did for me: I felt cared for!

On the 5th day, Thursday August 7, the wind settled enough to head out with Bill Climie on the gap between Sibley and Black Peninsulas: The first of many long crossings ( 4 -8 km) I would have to make to complete my sojourn on the Great Lakes -Superior and Huron. As I was just starting out on this new phase of my trip, my anxiety was high and it was comforting to have Bill Climie guide me across this first stretch. That night we completed the crossing as we camped on Island #10 upon which an historic wooden lighthouse (long since automated) was the principle feature. The next morning Bill Climie bid me adieu as the weather window would only last another day and he, rightly, wanted to get back before winds kept him from returning home as planned. This was it, I was on my own for the remainder of the month.

Underlying my concern was the impact of isolation and being wind bound on the land due to weather on my psyche: I was worried about my capacity to endure the anxiety provoked by my inaction and the surplus of unfocussed time on my hands. I knew I had to keep myself busy and engaged but that is often easier said than done. i was soon tested. After an ill advised start on day 3 from Silver Islet, I soon found myself in waters too dangerous for passage. I was rounding two points of land wherein the wind, waves and shoals of rock had me challenged to the extreme and likely terrified. After struggling ten km to the lee of the wind behind Spar island, I called it quits before lunch and waited out the “blow” for what proved to take the next 1.5 days. During that “furlough”, my psyche was challenged more than any time in my life. While I did have an amusing incident courtesy of the O.P.P to help me in my battle with the “chattering monkeys” playing havoc with my mood, the interval was soon over and I had to resume my own defenses. I was preparing my lunch on day two when the throttled back motor of a boat in “my bay” had me wondering: What the heck. There was an O.P.P. 24 ft RIB in my bay and clearly they were not looking for me. In fact they had spotted the porcupine who shared my bay and who would wander on the spit at noon in search of food. Once they saw me they landed their craft to speak to me: Is this guy nuts? Unfortunately they grounded the keel and required my assistance to rock it off the gravel embankment.

Fortunately, the weather improved and I was able to pass on the outside of the islands making up the Rossport Archipalago into the stretch along the north shore of Superior between Schreiber and Marathon, passing Jackfish Bay (where I had to sit out a thunderstorm for two hours at mid day) and the economically devastated Terrace Bay -the pulp mill having been closed of late, in 4 days. While I did have a nice following wind, I went like stink because I was on a mission to make it to Marathon before the weather turned -I did not want to get isolated again on some desolate island.

My arrival in Marathon was heralded by a a sudden increase in wind wind and waves which was exacerbated by the compression between the two headlands bracketing the entrance to the harbour. I found myself dazed on the boat launch wandering around in the “buff” after I had removed my wetsuit. I must have presented quite a sight for I soon had offers of assistance from Dion Berube (Bill Climie had seen I had landed on the SPOT system and asked him to find me), Michael Butler and another father and son team. In the end, I accepted Michael Butler’s proffered assistance by way of bed, meal, transportation and introduction to his wife Martha and other staff at Pukaswa National Park. The latter was to prove to be my home for four days as i waited for the wind to die -AUGUST IS HISTORICALLY A BAD MONTH FOR TRAVEL ON SUPERIOR FOR THE SUN’S WARMING OF THE WATER HAS THE EFFECT OF INCREASING WINDS INDEPENDENT OF WEATHER SYSTEMS. Michael introduced me to Lynn Elliott an employee with the Park whose duties included packaging trips on the latter. She would provide me with maps and other critical information, not only on the Park’s coastline but that of the North Channel of Lake Huron -Blind River being her family home.

Michael Butler not only helped me get to “Puck”, he was a daily visitor for the time I was in “Puck” and was one of the most spontaneously generous souls I have ever met. He also introduced me to Kim Ransom who further detailed the coast for me. The weather turned foul and for three days I was left to hike trails of the Park with my new found friend Rudy Hrdlicka of Port Carling, Ontario who I met on one of my island campsites on Lake Superior.

On day four at “Puck”, my VHF gave me the news that the next two days at least would have a ‘high wind warning’ and the time had come for me to make a decision. As i did not have enough days left to paddle the complete coastline of both Superior and Huron and meet my son Wyatt at Killarney on Georgian Bay on August 31, I decided to take a lift with Rudy down to Wawa, ON and Lake Superior Provincial Park in the hope I would be able to to complete this coastline and the balance of lake Superior without enduring more lengthy delays.

Although I missed doing the 200 km of Pukaswa to Wawa coastline, I DID BY TAKING THE RIDE UNEXPECTEDLY COME ACROSS THE GRAVE OF MY GREAT, GREAT, GREAT AUNT LOUISA MACKENZIE BETHUNE ON THE NORTH BANK OF THE MICHIPICOTEN RIVER.

With the help of Carol Deutsh, in charge of the Lake Superior Provincial Park Visitors Center, and her husband Bill Cooper, I was able to get the maps and coastline detail, such as get out points, I needed to go south.

I was able to finish Lake Superior to the entry of Sault Ste Marie headlands on Whitefish Bay before winds and weather got me to seek the assistance of Peter Kempney to give me a lift to the St Mary River just east of the Sault. It was pure luck that Peter was at home and has such a kind heart when I realized I needed to avoid the “time trap”of the locks at the Sault.

The North Channel of Lake Huron is protected to an extent for much of its length across this Lake by large islands, including Manitoulin, lying between the channel and the harsher waters of Lake Huron. While it is possible to have high winds, the North Channel has its own “recreation” forecast which interprets the effect of these islands.

I put in some long days and long crossings to complete this channel and the stretch from Blind River to Little Current and Killarney had me holding my breath that the level of wind and height of waves in Lake Huron did not spill though while I was out in the open. It did not and I made it on tome to meet Wyatt in Killarney.

Unfortunately Wyatt was unable to be with me for the three days as planned and his two days made it necessary to go across Georgian Bay by way of the back side of William Edward Island, Collins Inlet and Beaverhouse, and return the next day to Killarney by way of the Chickens and the outside of the Island. It was great fun to be with him. I WAS HAPPY TO BE DONE WITH THE GREAT LAKES!

Getting a ride to North Bay with Wyatt, I rented a car the next day and returned to Killarney to pick up the kayak. Doubling back to the French River at Hartley Bay, I proceeded to make 40 km circles of the lower, middle and upper French River, before doing same on Lake Nippissing and la Vase Portage before returning the car in North Bay and meeting up with the crew from Ottawa.

Four days on the Mattawa River with friends Don Bayne, John Gordon and John Fee was quite simply devine. Although it rained hard on day one, the remaining crystal clear days soon had us soon forgetting the soaking we got. I had great fun and appreciate their support.

I AM WRITING THIS UPDATE FROM VANCOUVER WHERE I AM ATTENDING THE WEDDING OF MY SON WYATT WITH VANESSA BURDETT. MY PRESENCE HERE HAS BEEN GREATLY FACILITATED BY MY FRIENDS IN NORTH BAY: CHRISTINE JOHNSTON WHO HAS PROVIDED LOGING FOR ME AND STORAGE FOR MY KAYAK AND GEAR WHILE I AM AWAY AND JOHN AND BETTY GORDON’S DAUGHTER JEN, HUSBAND ROGER, CHILDREN GIFFORD, AILI AND EMY.