Winnipeg River

“The hardest thing I have done in my life!”

The speaker was my father, Herbert Hartley, who made this statement so many times in my presence that it became almost a mantra of the terms exigent on a river trip.

The source of his comments was the Winnipeg River. In 1934, as nineteen year olds, my father and my Godfather to be Rowan Coleman paddled up the Winnipeg River in a canoe. My father talked about fording / lining the canoe up the River when rapids were encountered and at times they were submerged up to their shoulders. I have a black and white framed photograph on my bedroom dresser, of them up to their armpits, which acts as a constant reminder of this stretch of water.

The River he talked about was once wild and spectacular as it dropped 270 feet in a series of rapids and falls in the 435 km journey westward from Kenora, Ontario on Lake of the Woods to Lake Winnipeg. The voyageurs loved snaking down its gorges and passable rapids as they made good time, despite portaging the falls. The return journey, what with paddling, poling, lining and portaging, took a lot longer and substantially more exertion. This stretch and that of the French River, between Georgian Bay and Lake Nippissing, more than any forged the voyageurs image into the lore of Canadian History as “romantic” icons daringly shooting the boiling rapids in an aperture of water between granite cliffs.

Since that bygone era, seven hydroelectric projects have been built to feed the energy needs of Winnipeg and southern Manitoba. I won’t use this as a pulpit for the pros or cons of such modernization but some have referred to it now as “The River of Sorrows”.

I will say that on my trip the dams, except for the effort taken to portage around them which is a direct tradeoff over the falls and rapids of old, will make life easier in that the stretches of water above the dams will have lost their current and paddling upstream should be less taxing (note that this is being written in April or income tax time by an accountant), at least for a while. The exception can occur in periods of high rains when the dams are forced to discharge so much water to prevent flooding and make the current impassable.

I look forward to paddling through the always gorgeous Precambrian (aka Canadian) Shield. Although I have not been on the Winnipeg River specifically, I spent time in the period 1962 -1964 at other locations in Manitoba’s Whiteshell Provincial Park such as Falcon Lake. Although across the provincial border, I also spent some idyllic days in the same period at adjacent Clear Water Bay on Lake of the Woods, Ontario. In 1973 I also had the pleasure of sailing from Clear Water Bay to just before Kenora and back with Jock McDonald and his father; beautiful, stunning, pristine are words which can’t adequately describe this utopia.

I look forward to camping on the shore of the River or one of the lakes included in the water system after a hard day’s paddling. As it will be early July, I should enjoy long days and hopefully good weather. I have this vision of relaxing and enjoying the gloaming as the earth gives way to night. As I used to sing at Boy Scout and YMCA Camp:

“Day is done, gone the sun
From the lakes, from the hills, from the sky
All is well, safely rest
God is nigh.
Fading light dims the sight
And a star gems the sky, gleaming bright
From afar, drawing near
Falls the night.
Thanks and praise for our days
Neath the sun, neath the stars, neath the sky
As we go, this we know
God is nigh.”

Perhaps a little hokey in today’s cynical world, but it works for me.

I expect to be in Kenora by Sunday July 8 to meet with Bob Salmond of Victoria. We will rent a canoe and paddle the length of Lake of the Woods and up the Rainy River to its source at Rainy Lake. I will leave my kayak behind for Bobs Rieder and Rebagliati to pick up the next Sunday as they motor from Winnipeg to join us in Fort Frances.

Lake Winnipeg

This sucker scares the heck out of me!

But I am getting ahead of myself.

Once the North Saskatchewan and South Saskatchewan merge beyond Prince Albert, the distance to The Pas, Manitoba is 360 km. In that leg I will have to pass around two hydro dams and the reservoirs behind them. The latter are noteworthy because they are known to be subject to some nasty local winds. Prior to arriving at The Pas, I will pass historic Cumberland House.  The Pas will be my resupply center for the three weeks dealing with Cedar Lake and Lake Winnipeg for there are very few inhabitants before I get to Lac du Bonnet on the Winnipeg River. Cedar Lake is essentially now a 170 km long hydro reservoir behind the dam at Grand Rapids, Manitoba situated at the outlet into Lake Winnipeg.

The north basin of Lake Winnipeg is the historic route of the fur traders heading to Montreal and, as I am trying to be as authentic as possible, is the route I will take. Later in history many fur traders opted for the longer route from Cedar Lake south into Lake Winnipegosis by way of Mossy Portage, over a portage into Lake Manitoba and down its length, over a 30 km portage to Portage la Prairie on the Assiniboine River, east on the Assiniboine to Winnipeg on the Red River, down the latter to Lake Winnipeg and up the east shore to the entrance to the Winnipeg River. I have read reports of three trips from the 2011season, and they all eschewed taking the north basin of Lake Winnipeg at the least and in two cases they opted for the broader Lake Manitoba route.

While my heart says go Lake Winnipeg, it will depend on weather. There are two types of weather to concern myself about. Firstly, there are large scale systems which make travel perilous if not impossible. Last year there were weeks of torrential rains in south western Manitoba which made travel on Lake Manitoba and Assiniboine River very hazardous. In 2010, there were massive storm systems, which included tornados, in east / central Saskatchewan. My brother in law, Jim Munro, did the same trip as me in 1970 and was marooned by weather for more than a week on an island in Lake Winnipeg and when food ran out they scavenged for gull eggs to feed themselves. Thankfully Environment Canada provides constant marine weather updates on its VHF service and I am experienced in the use of this magical resource. I trust I won’t have to use my SPOT devise or satellite radio to rescue me.

The second type of weather concerns are local conditions wherein topography breeds squalls which can turn the water into frothing waves in minutes. The problem is that Lake Winnipeg is very shallow and wind can generate large crests of water which can imperil even a kayak. Although I will not be far from shore, there are reputedly areas where I won’t be able to get off the water for rocks and cliffs. I will need to be on constant guard. The lack of inhabitants and desolation makes weather issues loom larger than say in Lake Superior, for on the latter at least the highway is adjacent to the coast for the most part.

I had hoped to have John George as a partner for this section, but late last week he advised he won’t be participating. As John is the best paddler I know, I came to think of him as my safety blanket. Perhaps it was the clarity of this understanding which helped him reach his conclusion. Fair enough, but it made me feel so alone. I will need a strong dose of courage to push on at this point.

Even if I were to bail at this point, where would I go? One group last summer got a ride from Grand Rapids to Hecla on the islands of the Hecla / Grindstone Provincial Park jutting out into the western shore of the south basin of Lake Winnipeg. While the south basin does not appear as daunting, I would still have to cross from the west to east shore and travel down the east shore to the Winnipeg River estuary.  Regardless of how I make it there, I will at this point summon the spirit of my grandfather Thomas Leonard Hartley, who built a summer cottage in 1926 for my father Herbert and his sister Muriel at Camp Morton north of Gimli on the west shore, to give me resolve. Similarly, it will warm my heart to know that my brother Ian’s wife Marie Louise spent her summers at Winnipeg Beach on the west shore –and survived all the shenanigans let alone the storms.

I will focus on my vision of entering the Winnipeg River and coming up to the first of five dams: “Problem, no problem!”

Edmonton River Valley: Redux

The river valley, most of which is parkland, is a jewel and, to be corny, what makes Edmonton shine. I look forward to letting the current take me through the length of the City while I sit back and enjoy the high sculptured valley walls and the memories they evoke. This is a list of memories of my youth (1952 – 1964) as I move through the city from west to east.

Part B

From the west: R= right shore or valley top, L for gauche

Edmonton Country Club and Golf Course (L):  I caddied for Mrs. Elise Duggan in the Alberta Women’s Championship in 1959

White Mud Creek R

   -skiing with my mother in 1953 –rope tow and saw a sleigh hitting a tree

    -Rainbow Valley –skiing at Snow Valley using a rope tow and horseback riding in the summer. On one occasion, while riding up the tow rope, it wound itself around the loose fabric on my wind shell below my arm pit, lifted me off the ground at the point of disembarkation and only came to stop as I was 1 foot away from the first wheel. On stopping, I was released and fell 20 ft to the ground striking my head on the steel tower suffering a concussion.

    -Rainbow Valley –further south using a poma lift to get up the hill by the same name

Edmonton Valley Zoo (1959) L I went there within days of its official opening.

Saskatchewan Drive R *Is there a more picturesque address in Canada?*

R Covey of large houses standing out on the promontory; (1950’s) Shandro, Millar, Morris, and Hartley sisters (no relation) among others. *Is there a more picturesque address in Canada?*

Gravel Pit –now Hawrelak Park R

Mayfair Golf Club (R): I started caddying at a young age, and in 1961 I was asked to work in the pro shop cleaning members clubs on finishing their rounds and picking up golf balls on the driving range. I had the same job in1962.

St George’s Crescent L *Is there a more picturesque address in Canada?*

Wellington Crescent L *Is there a more picturesque address in Canada?*

Clifton Place L *Is there a more picturesque address in Canada?*

Groat Road and Bridge (1953 I watched them being built -fascinating)

Emily Murphy Park and hill –gravel road R

Victoria Golf (“Muni”) L: I learned to play golf here

Windsor Park Community Recreation Centre (R) which provided two sheets of outdoor ice, one for hockey and one for free skating, and in the room above the change rooms space for the scout troop (Edmonton 52^nd).

U of Alberta R

   -Quonset huts

   -ski hill –believe it or not I saw a ski race on this hill, now long grown over. The racers finished on the frozen river.

   -Old wooden stand alone ice rink on SW corner of 87^th Ave and 115^th street

Northern Alberta Jubilee Auditorium R (1955 watched it being built)

Victoria Park Road L

100th Ave L *Is there a more picturesque address in Canada?*

Garneau Theatre R In 1952 I saw my first movie which was the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth R I am amazed that Queen Elizabeth II is enjoying her Diamond Jubilee this year.

River Road L

Royal Glenora Club L

Grandin School (110^th St & 99^th Ave) L: For better or worse I learned my 3 R’s here from grades 1 – 9 as part of the Edmonton Francophone community

High Level Bridge; Memory of following a NADP horse drawn milk wagon across the bridge from the south shore in winter at -20 F and you can imagine what the horse did with its digested oats. This bridge is a classic!

Walterdale Park and Hill R

Kinsmen Park and playing fields (Pre pool 7 sports centre) R

Edmonton Huskies R Their training facility was run out of and old house on the grounds.

Duggan Bridge (watched it being built in 1957 – 58) Saskatchewan Dr; Father of two neighbours - Eric & Dr (cub master) : John Joseph Duggan 1868 – 1952; Mayor 1902 -1903 & 1908- 1910 –over  Fort Hill Road previously wooden and unpaved. R

Parliament Buildings L From time to time we would venture over to the Parliament Buildings at noon from Grandin School and just enjoy its structure and the museum. One day we actually found the staircase to the turret of the rotunda open and made our way up to take in this classic view.

105^th St Bridge

Rossdale generation station L

Queen Elizabeth Park + Drive R

“South Side” Swimming Pool R Many a happy sunny summer day spent at this outdoor pool.

Grain Elevator R

Renfrew Park baseball stadium L

McDougall Hill (soap box derby) L

Macdonald Hotel L

Grierson Hill L

Low Level Bridge

Edmonton Ski Club R  For three winters I lived here; you could not tell me I wasn’t the luckiest kid around. On occasion when the hill became too icy, we would dig it up and continue as if nothing happened.

Connor Rd Ski jump R This derelict wooden trestle was terrifying as it stood above the crest of the hill and any jumper would literally, after descending the in run, take off as the buses passed within feet below.

Jasper Ave NW L

Clarke Stadium (Stadium Avenue) L Edmonton Eskimos of Jackie Parker, Johnny Bright, Normie Kwong, Rollie Miles, Art Walker, Oscar Kruger, et al; also home stadium for Junior Huskies and Wildcats.

Edmonton Gardens (Exhibition Grounds) L Edmonton Flyers, a farm team of the Detroit Red Wings playing in the Western Hockey League until 1963, of Johnny Bucyk, Glenn Hall, Al Arbour and Norm Ullman; also home of junior Oil Kings

Riverside Golf Club R

Highlands Golf Club L

Rundle Park L

Highway 16 Clover Bar Bridge

CNR Bridge

Next stop Fort Saskatchewan and Lake Winnipeg

Edmonton River Valley

The river valley, most of which is parkland, is a jewel and, to be corny, what makes Edmonton shine. I look forward to letting the current take me through the length of the City while I sit back and enjoy the high sculptured valley walls and the memories they evoke. I will spare the reader and break the list of memories into the city of my youth (1952 – 1964) Part B; and my second coming (1979 – 1986) Part A.

Part A

Because Terwillegar Park, followed by Fort Edmonton Park, will be the first to greet me on my right as I arrive into Edmonton, and did not exist in my youth, I will describe memories unique to 1979 – 1986 first.

Historic Fort Edmonton is a valuable and fascinating rebuild of a variety of buildings and their contents representing a number of epochs which gave me glimmer of what had been before my arrival on earth.

Edmonton Rowing Club (L): I have only been on the River once and for only a short segment. To me at least, that previous sojourn is worthy of repeating but necessary of a preamble.  In 1983 an enterprising group out of Calgary under the leadership of Marvin McDill undertook something that was unique in the annals of Canada and certainly Alberta. They put together a bid for an entry into the world’s premier offshore sailing race called the America’s Cup. Their custom designed 12 metre yacht (the standard for the years 1956 – 1987) was appropriately named Canada 1 and, for a landlocked province, rules required it be registered at Secret Cove Yacht Club, BC. An Edmonton consortium was put together to finance the purchase of a previous generation 12 m training yacht called Clipper to serve as training partner. That boat was both registered and located in Newport, Rhode Island which at that time was the world hub of the America’s Cup, not because it was located in the United States but because the USA had never lost the best of seven series since its founding in 1851.

In the winter, spring and summer of 1983 there were a steady round of fund raising events in Edmonton and throughout Canada to support the Canada 1 outfitting and training of the 12 man on deck crew, let alone the supporting cast onshore. One such event was a rowing “test” match of 8 motley supporters vs. the well honed crew of the Edmonton Police Department on the River at the site of the Edmonton Rowing Club. The Club had been founded in the 1970’s and a site developed on the north side of the River near Laurier Park.

What unfolded was worthy of a Three Stooges movie. As I was one of the unlikely eight, my total lack of experience in a racing shell, let alone the understanding of the synchronization required of eight rowers and a coxswain, was fairly typical. What unfolded was an unmitigated, if humorous, disaster which fortunately at least did not result in damages to the actual racing shell or injury to any participant, as long as one’s ego was not counted. Since the shell was a sweeper, as opposed to a skull, and each rower used two hands to row a single oar alternatively to the left or right, there were four oars working, to put it loosely, out of each side. Now imagine that the timing of those 4 rowers could not be maintained beyond the first stroke with the result that not only were oars being whacked against each other, at times they were actually locked. Now appreciate this calamity was being repeated on the other side. Although very visible and loud, another more serious issue was occurring in the shell with some rowers colliding: as one rower was pushing back on the shuttle while drawing the blade of the oar through the water, in many instances the rower behind would be out of sync because focus was on keeping tempo with those other 3 rowers on that side of the boat. Out of sync often meant that rower was moving up the shuttle with the oar out of the water and hands and arms extended and catching the party ahead in the small of the back. The shot in the back hurt like heck and stopped one cold. The net effect was that in short order the boat would come to an abrupt halt for all the rowers had either stopped to disentangle or wince from the pain in their kidneys. All of this activity caused the shell to rock from side to side which served to accentuate the next problem.

The other delightful test of one’s pain threshold is called a “crab”. Imagine, in the midst of all this confusion, you stopped rowing but did not lift your oar out of the water. Or imagine alternatively, you were trying valiantly to keep up the tempo with the others and, having finished your stroke, were bringing the oar back to the starting position. At any time this required finishing the stroke and holding the blade out of the water until reaching the start and then consciously dipping the blade back in the water. However, because of the rocking of the boat the blade unintentionally entered the water at the midpoint of this movement. As the boat had momentum, if only because of the current of the River, the blade upon catching the water would grab and thrust the handle suddenly and with force into to your rib cage. I can attest to experiencing this little treat more than once and each time with more power because the shell was unfortunately moving faster.

The police crew went from amusement to contempt in short order and gave up any sense of a race. By this time we were down river and had to get some sort of order together to get back to the clubhouse, against the current yet. Through fits and starts we slowly were making our way back to the base. At one point we were remarkably making some way when, for the first time, our coxswain was required to actually steer the boat. It was only then it became apparent that he did not know what he was doing with the pedals at his disposal and dramatically turned the rudder the wrong way and hence steered the boat into the shore.  The mirth was palpable and heightened because this was not a scripted “slapstick” comedy or anything else contrived but simply 9 goofs screwing up an activity that required technique and precision. The word dénouement and its meaning immediately sprang to mind: the outcome of a doubtful series of occurrences. What was the best part? While it would be 20 years before I got into a shell again, I had a lot of fun!

From the west: R= right shore or valley top, L for gauche

Whitemud Drive Bridge

Convention Centre L

Muttart Conservatory R

Commonwealth Stadium: The Edmonton Eskimos won 5 Grey Cups in a row from 1978 – 1982. L

Capilano Expressway Bridge (Expressway subsequently renamed Wayne Gretzky Drive)

Northlands Coliseum: The Edmonton Oilers dynasty of Wayne Gretzky, Mark Messier, Paul Coffey, Grant Fuhr, et al was beyond excitement.  L

Strathcona Science Provincial Park R

Sunridge Ski Area R

Yellowhead Highway Bridge

North Saskatchewan River: One of the world's great rivers

I must disclose my bias towards the beauty and majesty of the North Saskatchewan River. Having lived in Edmonton from 1952 – 1964, and 1979 – 1986, the River dominated every day for 19 years. For nine of those years I crossed the river twice every school day and most of my recreation was provided within its forested river valley. In my view only Quebec City and Ottawa are so dominated by their respective waterways as they cleave a deep swath through the heart of the broader city.

Those portions of the North Saskatchewan River I have been blessed to see to date are beautiful. The River twists and turns at the bottom of a sharply sculptured valley as deep as any I have seen. Except those occasions where I have crossed the river en route between Saskatoon and Edmonton by road and rail, my experience rests with that part which dominates the City of Edmonton and from Saskatchewan Crossing in the Rocky Mountains east to Rocky Mountain House.

I must confess that canoeing such a deep and twisting river can be frustrating because my vision is limited to the valleys walls and further it is hard to determine where I am short of using a GPS. My trip down the River by canoe from Saskatchewan Crossing to Rocky Mountain House in 2006 was without a GPS and I can only say: “Never again!”

My experience canoeing large rivers such as the North Saskatchewan has been increased greatly by having knowledge of the geography and human history of the river. It is so helpful in supplying context to the location. Rocky Mountain House to the confluence with the South Saskatchewan River forming the Saskatchewan River is 1150 km.  Apart from Edmonton and Prince Albert, there are only the smaller communities of Drayton Valley, Fort Saskatchewan, and North and South Battleford on the banks of the River. On this portion of my trip I will be using two sources principally to embellish the spirit of the river:  

1/ Myrna Kostash and Duane Burton ‘Reading the River: A Traveller’s Companion to the North Saskatchewan River”, 2006, Coteau Books

2/ George Monro Grant ‘Ocean to Ocean’: Sanford Fleming’s expedition through Canada in 1872: being a diary kept during a journey from the Atlantic to the Pacific with the expedition of the engineer-in –chief of the Canadian Pacific and intercolonial railways.

The latter is one of the best travel books I have read. The part that is germane to my imminent trip is the description of their travels along the Carlton Trail from Winnipeg through to Edmonton, and particularly from Fort Carlton, Saskatchewan to Fort Edmonton. It is almost surreal to follow along with the writer as they travel west along first the south bank and then the north bank of the virtually unpopulated River.

They and other sources will help identify and describe the historic communities (from west to east) of Fort George, Buckingham House, Heinsburg, Fort Pitt, Fort Battleford, and Fort Carlton.

My sense of history and spiritual connection will be heightened as I reach that place along the Carlton Trail where travelers crossed from the south bank to the north bank of the River, for I know that my paternal great grandfather Dr. Daniel Hagerty passed this way in 1879 as he traveled to Saint Paul (de Métis) on Upper Thérien Lake, Alberta from Portage La Prairie, Manitoba to deal with an outbreak of smallpox.

My next blog will outline those highlights of the Edmonton River Valley I look forward to seeing again, albeit from a unique perspective.

The crucible of heroes

I have to make an important distinction when I refer to fur traders paddling east from Lake Winnipeg, for it only applies to Canadiens Coureur de bois and those traders operating as the North West Company as the Hudson Bay Company shipped all of their furs through York factory at the mouth of the Hayes River on Hudson Bay. Indeed, once the two great rivals merged in 1821, all furs were henceforth shipped to Europe through Hudson Bay as the distance was shorter and the economies of scale using large sailing vessels rather than canoes were huge.

As I am demonstrating with my current trip, the distance from Montreal to the new rich fur territories averaged 5000 km and the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the merchants who used this route to supply their traders and return the furs inspires me.

One singular feature which is striking is the development of first Grand Portage and, after settling of the American border, Fort William in 1803 as the half way trans-shipment point. Canoes laden with provisions and trading goods would leave Montreal in the spring and rendezvous at these fortifications at the western end of Lake Superior with canoes full of furs from the western territories. Cargoes would be exchanged and after some apparently notorious merriment the two groups would begin their return voyages so as to arrive at their respective destinations well before freeze up. To facilitate this operation two distinct classifications of workers and canoes developed. The first being those who resided in Montreal and travelled, because of the terrain and bodies they crossed, by means of large canoes of up to twenty paddlers and room for large amounts of provisions. The others were those who wintered in the field trading for furs and collecting them at loosely prescribed forts. Travel to and fro was done by smaller canoes to accommodate both the terrain and the multiple destinations. I don't know if a suplly chain of this magnitude, given its time, has ever been equaled?

My current path takes me entirely through Canadian territory and thus I will arrive at Fort William which was amalgamated with Port Arthur in 1970 to create the city of Thunder Bay. While all vestiges of the fort were demolished over time by the CPR, I look forward to stopping at the reconstructed Fort William Historical Park on the banks of the Kaministiquia River just before it runs into Lake Superior.

To me this stuff is much more than a simple narrative of who, what, when, where, why and how. I am in awe of the forces this commerce unleashed. Amazingly, for the sake of fashion, men and woman undertook heroic acts which effectively opened up a huge and unprecedented amount of territory to first European colonization and then others from every corner of the globe that ultimately forged a country the size, complexity and possibility of Canada.

For everything in life there is a perfect context

Theme: Coureur de bois

Someone once told me that most things in life can have greater meaning and clarity if given suitable context.

To that end; if one looks on my profile to this blog, one will find that I am having fun with it by setting out my career as Fur Trader. Indeed, that is my context!

Yes, I am moving with the spirit of my deceased son, but my vision is seeing the country through the eyes of a “coureur de bois” circa 1750, a “nor’wester” circa 1790, and a “voyageur” circa 1800.

I look forward, for instance, to looking at the north basin of Lake Winnipeg, not solely as a scarcely inhabited, desolate, feared wind and weather swept shallow unforgiving body of water, but as a necessary leg in the historic movement of goods and furs to and from Montreal and the interior.

The trip in its entirety has many daunting barriers of water which I believe will be overcome psychologically and thus physically with an assist from a perspective honed out of my context.

Given my theme, it is fitting that I will be starting my trip May 19 from the Rocky Mountain House National Historic Site of Canada which is located on terrain that formerly comprised forts of the North West Company and Hudson Bay Company (both in 1799). Similarly, I will be finishing my leg from Ottawa to Montreal at The Fur Trade at Lachine National Historic Site of Canada located on Lake Saint-Louis west of Montreal. Lachine literally translates as “to China” and reflects that initially fur traders, and subsequently other merchants, from Montreal chose to ship their goods to and from the Port of Montreal by land along this route prior to striking out westward by canoe or boat in order to avoid the Lachine Rapids. After its prominence as a fur trading transshipment center, the site became the westward entrance to the Lachine Canal built in 1825.

And finally, in keeping with my theme I will visit Fort Langley National Historic Site of Canada, a Hudson Bay Company fur trading centre from 1850, on the southern bank of the Fraser River just before entering into the narrows at New Westminster on my last leg, down the Fraser River from Yale to Vancouver October 10 – 13.

In order to help me keep to my context in the heart of my trip and to conjure up those peaceful yet haunting spirits of the past, I will use the music sheets of those ballads harmonized by the voyageur brigades to ease their toil as they made their way over lakes and portages. I can visualize myself singing as I make my way along the classic path across Lake of the Woods, Superior and Huron and up the French River and down the Mattawa and Ottawa Rivers. By my arrival in Montreal I should have lost my voice.